Foods and Festivals

I just came back from the gym with two new recipes. Some time ago, I joined a class for women of my age that focuses on stretching, some abdominal exercises and maintaining flexibility. No machines or aerobics for this group. We do many of our exercises from a prone position which lends itself to chatting and, not surprisingly, the subject of discussion is usually food and how to prepare it. This French obsession has its good side: recipes, advice, and good addresses are constantly being offered. Curiously, these women never talk about diets and not, I can assure you, because they are all pencil thin. In fact, the prototype of the elegant petite Frenchwoman is rapidly changing and a French fashion industry study has shown that French women have gone up one size since the 1980s. When they do acquire bulk, I believe French women simply cover it up better. They have a way with scarves that draws the attention to this accent and away from the waist; they will wear an elegant loose blouse rather than a tight top that reveals bulges, and they will wear high heels till they drop rather than go for the comfortable but sloppy look of running shoes. It’s all in the packaging and the presentation.  

Speaking of food, this month we pay homage to a lowly cookie – the age-old boat-shaped NAVETTE – which either represents the boats that brought the Phoceans to Provence where they established the city of Massalia (Marseilles) more than 2600 years ago, or it replicates the boat that brought Mary Magdalene, Lazarus and others to the Mediterranean shores where they spread the gospel. The celebration takes place in Marseilles where church-blessed navettes are distributed freely and often consumed with a little Pastis in a nearby cafe. In Aix, another sweet – the famous CALISSON – commemorates the city being spared from the plague by its patron saint, Our Lady of Seds. Religion and food are often intertwined here. Taking Root in Provence tells the story -- click here.  

A great getaway from winter chills is the Lemon Festival in MENTON in mid-February. This pretty town on the Riviera near the Italian border has a micro-climate that favors citrus fruits which grow in abundance here and are piled high on the many magnificent floats rolling down the sunny avenues. Almost makes you forget it is still winter elsewhere.   

Christmas Time

Let’s start with year-end 2010 and the very different ways France and the US celebrate Christmas. French Christmas is all about food, and the most important meal of the year is Christmas dinner, which is often eaten on Xmas Eve. For weeks all media talk about this meal and all TV news channels feature shows where famous chefs prepare part or all of the special Christmas dinner. Advertising focuses heavily on the luxury end of the food chain: truffles, caviar, champagne, and fine chocolates. This emphasis on food cuts across society, and each within his budget will produce an exceptional dinner this one day of the year. Gifts are exchanged, like anywhere else, but the gift of a spectacular dinner may give the French the greatest satisfaction of all. 

Oh, and the French don’t do Christmas carols, don’t deck the halls, don’t do office parties and don’t send out cards. Christmas decoration is usually limited to a tree and a nativity scene, which in Provence may include the typical SANTONS made by local artisans. These are figurines sculpted from wood or clay, painted or natural, that represent village people, a shepherd, the miller, the mayor with sash, or the baker with a bag of flour, on their way to the manger. Some churches have life-sized santons that may carry gifts of lavender, wheat or olives.    

Epiphany: January 6th marks the end of the Christmas celebrations. Called La Fête des Rois in France, on this day we eat a traditional cake in honor of the three Magi: la GALETTE DES ROIS. In fact, this galette is sold in all French bakeries throughout the month of January. The galette is a round puff-pastry cake that is filled with almond paste and contains a fava bean. The person who gets the bean will be king or queen for the day and receives a paper crown. 

Some people prefer the COURONNE DES ROIS, a brioche-like ring of pastry studded with candied fruit.  

We were surprised to discover that Provence can be quite cold in winter, especially when the Mistral blows, and that snow is rare but not unknown here. In fact, last year the city of Marseilles was completely paralyzed by a snowstorm because there is no snow removal equipment here.  

WARNING: With apologies for the interruption, I would like to point out that in this blog I will be referring occasionally to my book "Taking Root in Provence" (2011). In doing so, I am aware of the possibility that you may end up on Amazon.com where the book is for sale, and I want to warn you NOT to buy my current book together with an earlier one called "Ten Years in Provence" (2008), no matter what Amazon says. "Taking Root" expands on and replaces "Ten Years" but unfortunately I cannot remove the earlier book from Amazon where it will stay until the stock is depleted. Appeals to Amazon to remove their statement that these two books are "Frequently Bought Together" have been unsuccessful.

France is a lay country but it continues to celebrate many feasts of a religious nature. Among the oldest and most important is the Fête de ST. MARCEL, also named Les Tripettes, celebrated in mid-January in the village of Barjols where he is the patron saint. During these festivities a bull is roasted on a spit to commemorate the bull that saved the village from famine in 1350, and everybody dances the Tripetttes, a dance named after the bull’s tripe. (Yes… it’s a long story). The colorful festivities last two days and attract huge crowds. (*)

Saint Marcel

(*) Every month has several celebrations of saints, foods or animals. To see Taking Root in Provence for a description of these traditional feasts throughout the year, click here.